The Torridon, Loch Torridon, Scottish Highlands, late October 2013.
Mist and drizzly rain rolling off the loch, shrouding majestic mountains
in a veil of white; magnificent hairy coos*– who could double as oversized
shaggy teddy bears save for their long, elegant curving horns and rhythmic
bellowing; roaring log fires and swathes of beautifully woven tartan and tweed;
a dram of single malt whisky – served with porridge for breakfast no less; bracing
rambles through fragrant pine forests, voices hushed, in the hope of spotting
the resident stag deer; clay pigeon shooting on the manicured front lawn; a tower
of Tunnock’s delicious milk chocolate Tea Cakes - the quintessential Scottish
treat. If a luxury break in the wildly beautiful Scottish Highlands appeals,
The Torridon is the place to do it.
On our picturesque journey through wild, wet and windy moors to The Torridon, we pass grazing deer, a breathtaking medieval castle perched on a
small island – the Eilean Donan, and the site of the 1719 Battle of Glen Shiel, part of the Jacobite rising in Scotland. It
was a drive steeped in history and beauty and approaching The Torridon, with
its fairytale-like turrets and towers, I pondered whether it would have been
more appropriate to arrive on galloping horses proclaiming Alba gu bràth!** Unsure of exactly how
I could manage suitcases on a horse, and definitely unsure of my Gaelic
expressions (Mel Gibson as William Wallace in Braveheart is probably not the most appropriate way to learn), we had
to content ourselves with a rather more sensible arrival. With the heady smell of wood smoke in the air, we hitched the horses parked the car and
made our way inside, passing a jolly group of gentlemen outfitted in smart
tartan kilts. Making a mental note to ask about their kilts later (are they comfortable? worn year-round? what
lies beneath?), we are greeted warmly with an offer of afternoon tea - no
doubt a dram of whisky would have been an acceptable alternative! - and shown
to our suite.
Located on the ground floor of The Torridon, the Master Suite is wonderfully
luxurious and big enough in which to swing Robbie, the hotel’s resident
Highland bull, and his harem of cows.
Furnished in elegant honey, ivory and caramel tones with separate bedroom, bathroom
and adjoining sitting room, the focal point is the bank of picture windows which frame the spectacular view
of the loch, mountains, and Robbie and his girls grazing in the front paddock. In
the hope of returning to London with a more robust constitution, I open the
windows to suck in lungfuls of crisp Highland air. Delightedly, the sound of a babbling
stream – more a rushing torrent due to the rain – floats back to me. Assured
that there was zero chance of the stream bursting its banks, I turn back to
exploring the suite. A vast bed (the type possible to do snow angels on and not
touch the sides) takes centre stage in the bedroom; the large bathroom is
stocked with delicious-smelling REN toiletries and a stack of white fluffy
towels; that tower of Tunnock’s
tea cakes stands temptingly in our line of sight prompting me to carefully
unwrap the first foil wrapper and bite into lush chocolate-y marshmallow-y
biscuit-y goodness – a revelation in deliciousness and cries of how have we not discovered these before
fill the room; a decanter of complimentary Torridon whisky sits next to a
collection of classics – notably Dickens’ The Pickwick Papers
and Sketches of Boz, while a tartan-covered
hot water bottle lies tucked away in preparedness for the chilly winter ahead
(returning to our room after dinner that night I discover it tucked, toasty
warm, into our bed!).
A former hunting lodge built in 1887 by the
first Earl of Lovelace, an English nobleman and scientist, the public rooms are
a delight to explore (crackling fires, splendid loch views, an intimate bar
with a staggering array of malt whisky, Latin inscribed cornicing and intricate
zodiac carvings, and a {perhaps former resident} stag deer head mounted on the
wall). But the main event lies outside: 58 acres of estate to discover. Woodlands, manicured lawns, pine
forests, a walled kitchen garden, pastures of red hairy beasties and the rocky
shores of the loch….it is all staggeringly beautiful. The Torridon is a
brilliant playground for those who love the great outdoors and for those who love the idea
of the great outdoors but perhaps prefer a good book, blazing log fire,
Tunnock’s Tea Cakes and tumbler of whisky instead.
Eat + Drink:
The food at The Torridon, from breakfast to
dinner and everything in between, is superb. With a commitment to sourcing
ingredients within a 65 mile radius of the hotel wherever possible, the
Torridon restaurant uses beef from its own herd of Highland cattle, seasonal fruit, herbs
and vegetables are grown in the hotel’s extensive kitchen garden, venison is
shot on a neighboring estate, shellfish is supplied by local fisherman and
smoked salmon comes from the Isle of Ewe smokehouse.
For dinner on our first night, we were
treated to a five-course menu which showcased the local produce, and the chef’s
ability to coax the best flavors from each ingredient, brilliantly. Highlights
included a sweet, subtle onion velouté with parmesan biscuit, crispy-skinned
duck on a rectangle of confit shallot tart with a smattering of smoky hazelnuts
and creamed celeriac, panfried sea bream with silky herb gnocchi and butternut
and sage puree, and a glorious dessert of glazed pineapple with coconut
ice-cream and sticky butterscotch sauce spiced with star anise.
The Torridon Inn next door is a more casual place
to dine – think battered local fish and chips, soups, hearty pies, big steaks
and Scottish ales – (and stay) if you are after a less splurdgy break.
Torridon Stores & Café,
Torridon. The local general store and purveyor of excellent homemade cakes and
rather good coffee.
Kishorn Seafood Bar, Strathcarron. Wonderfully fresh
local seafood and excellent service. We had oysters, a bowl of squat lobster tails,
and a warm croissant served with hand-dived scallops sautéed in garlic butter
(sounds like an odd combination but it was SO good!).
To Do:
The Torridon runs a full activities program
ranging from gorge scrambling, rock climbing, loch and river kayaking, to
rather more genteel activities such as guided walks, fly-fishing, whisky
tasting***and archery. As a nod to The Torridon’s former life as a
hunting lodge, we chose the clay pigeon shooting to test our aim and gun
handling skills. With the wind whipping off the loch (always an acceptable
excuse for missed shots) and guided expertly by Ryan, it was brilliant fun.
Further afield, we drove to small fishing villages (Gairloch and
Sheildaig) and a remote pub where my attempt to photograph a tetchy ram almost
ended in tears (mine).
*this is how the Highland cows roll in the North West Highlands. No
simple pronunciation of “cow” for them!
**Scotland Forever in Gaelic
We were hosted by The Torridon during our stay in the Scottish Highlands
